ceramic coating the oven racks

[sadiepike]

Hi gang,
Just posted pics of the ceramic coated oven racks on flickr. Also the pics of the safety valve and pilot light.

Installed the safety valve B4 seeing all the posts from stoveman - I'll plan on changed the installation method of the safety valve below the floor of the cabinet.

Wife just informed me she dosen't want to move Matty into the kitchen until we remodel. Makes since to me since I know the dust will be incredible.

[phoebe9435]

Thnk you for the photo history on sadiepikes! What a beautiful job you are doing! Where will I find info on the steps and products to do all that for my stove.. degrease, remove rust, how to dismantle all the parts, the paint, chrome polish, whatever you did to the timer with the spray...I must be on the site if I dig around
Thanks again. I am taking it all in .

[lowracer]

To find the steps you can dig around on this site, also several of us have flickr sites where you can watch the restoration step-by-step. Find a link to one such site in my signature block below...

[berlyn]

I can't wait to hear how the "ceramic coating" holds up.
We are still cleaning the dust from our kitchen remodel and when we had our roof redecked and reroofed. It seems like a never ending battle for me!!

[sadiepike]

Jenn,

I used 3/16" tubing for the pilot light bringing it out the back of the thermostat. The fittings and tubing on MATTY were for 1/8" pipe. Fittings for this size are tough to find. I got mine from a hose and fitting distributor but I think Ace Hardware may have them to adapt from 1/8" to 3/16" or 1/4" tubing. I've had more problems with the pilot light fittings availability than anything. The original pilot, tubing, and fittings in my case were for 1/8".

3/8" tubing for the supply line is easy to find. My local appliance supplier ordered the safety valve - they had the pilot light and thermocouple in stock.

[sadiepike]

Berlyn,

I'm generally a doityourself guy.

Wife and I have decided to hire a designer/contractor to do our kitchen cause we can't be down for 6-8 months. One month or slightly longer is tolorable. We certainly have an old kitchen and she deserves a new kitchen.

Do you or anybody have any suggestions on picking a kitchen contractor? There is probably a forum somewhere on the net.

[annnt]

Ron;
You should chat with Ha_Asfan (aka Robert). He's an interior designer with loads of experience, fabulous taste, and a great sense of humor. If he can't help you himself, he could send you in the right direction.
Ann

[ha_asfan]

Ron, I design kitchens...are you looking for a General Contractor or will you act as your own general ? I would start with finding a good cabinet maker. A cabinet maker can make anything you like and won't limit you to 3" increments or anything else. If you hire a general, he/she will work with your cabinet maker. As for cabinet specifics: a painted finish is the easiest to repair and to change, bottom mounted drawer glides will allow you to use a larger drawer, no side room needed for side mounted glides and there will no dirt accumulating on the side mounts. Base cabinets with doors and pullout trays waste a LOT of space and are not convenient to use. Base cabinets that are drawers only work the best. By eliminating the doors and the tracks needed to pull shelves out, you increase your storage space and eliminate the unnecessary extra step of opening doors to get to shelves. Good tracks will support one hundred pounds per drawer. Before you begin to layout your kitchen, do a COMPLETE INVENTORY. Know exactly how many pans you have,how many pots, lids, bowls, tools, et al...break them down into material categories: cast iron, enamel, stainless, aluminum....in your planning, make certain there is space for everything and include for expansion. Make a traffic pattern map of how you use your kitchen...where you stand the most, where you do all of your individual chores, what drawers and cabinets are you in and out of the most. If this sounds like too much, setup a video cam and tape yourself doing a complete meal, prep, cook and cleanup. You will see definite patterns developing. Every kitchen should have types of work surfaces: wood block for cutting and chopping, marble, granite, soapstone, slate, any slab stone for dough work. NEVER cut on stone. Stainless can function as stone if you prefer. Synthetic surfaces do not function as well as the materials they are immitating. There shoud be undercabinet task lighting, Xenon is the best and the lamps should be placed towards the front of the cabinets. Overhead recessed lighting should never be positioned directly over your work areas, they should always be to the side to avoid cast down shadowing. Cabinet pulls should be large enough to easily grab with messy hands and void of incising for easy cleaning. Your flooring should be sound absorbant, temperature responsive and cushioning to the feet and back. Avoid stone, ceramic and porcelian and look at cork, genuine linoleum [NOT VINYL], bamboo and wood. Undermount sinks are the easiest for cleaning, undermount farm sinks allow you to get closest to the sink. Faucets should not contain any plastic componets at all. The BEST faucet for the $ on the market is the Chicago faucet...not a lot of models to choose but the highest quality around. If you want local sources for any product, let me know and I can steer you [and everyone else] to a local distributor.

[chipperhiker]

Hi Ron,

It seems like I'm the next person who'll be going ahead on the safety system, so I hope you don't mind if I quiz you a bit on specifics.

I was looking at your pics. What size pilot lines are you using? Is it 1/4 inch, or is it smaller?

Where is your pilot gas supply coming from? I can't quite spot it in the photos. Sam had us put a "T" into the main supply. Wondering if you found another spot.

Thanks for the pics any any info you can give.

-jenn

[ha_asfan]

Thanks for the good words....one important thing I forgot was to adjust your counter heights to your needs. If you do a lot of baking or chopping, you may want to drop your counters two or three inches. Conversely, if you are very tall, raising your counters is the was to go. Berlyn is right, REFERENCES are crucial. Don't buy according to price...and if you do bid out the job, be certain you are bidding apples to apples.